Materials guide · Updated August 12, 2025
Clear Acrylic vs Clear Polycarbonate Flat Sheets: the no‑nonsense guide
Here’s a practical, plain‑English comparison of clear acrylic (PMMA) and clear polycarbonate (PC) sheet. It covers strength, clarity, UV/weathering, drilling/cutting, laser work, bending, temperature limits, cost, and typical uses—plus a step‑by‑step drilling how‑to and an extensive FAQ.
Quick pick: which should you choose?
Acrylic (PMMA) Crisp clarity
- Optical clarity: highest visible‑light transmission among clear plastics; stays bright outdoors.
- Scratch resistance: harder surface than standard PC; polishes and flame‑polishes well.
- Laser‑friendly: cuts and engraves cleanly on CO₂ lasers.
- Budget‑friendly: usually lower cost than PC.
Polycarbonate (PC) Impact‑tough
- Impact strength: extremely tough; chosen when breakage simply isn’t an option.
- Workability: drills and cold‑bends easily; great for guards and high‑traffic areas.
- Heat tolerance: higher heat‑deflection temperature than acrylic.
- Upgrades available: UV‑stabilised and abrasion‑resistant hard‑coat grades for outdoor/cleaning‑heavy use.
Building code note (AU): architectural glazing may require certified systems. See your designer/engineer and applicable standards before substituting plastics for safety glass.
Side‑by‑side comparison
| Property | Acrylic (PMMA) | Polycarbonate (PC) | What it means for you |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clarity / Light transmission | Up to ~92% visible‑light transmission | Typically ~86–88% for clear solid sheet | Acrylic looks slightly brighter; both are clear to the eye. |
| Impact resistance (vs glass) | ~10–20× stronger than glass | Up to ~250× stronger than glass | PC is the go‑to where breakage risk is high. |
| Scratch resistance (uncoated) | Better (harder surface) | Softer; shows scuffs; hard‑coat grades fix this | Choose acrylic for display clarity; choose hard‑coat PC for frequent cleaning. |
| UV/weathering | Inherently UV‑stable; excellent outdoor clarity | Standard PC needs UV‑stabilised or hard‑coat grades for long‑term sun | For long outdoor life, use UV‑grade PC or choose acrylic. |
| Heat resistance (HDT) | Approx. 90–100 °C (varies by grade) | Approx. 125–135 °C (varies by grade) | PC holds shape better near heat sources. |
| Cold bending | No (heat‑form only) | Yes (to a safe radius, check spec) | PC is handy for onsite bends and curved guards. |
| Laser cutting (CO₂) | Excellent; glossy, clear edges | Not recommended for thick sections; edges brown/yellow | Use acrylic for laser‑cut signage, letters, models. |
| Sawing / routing | Clean with sharp carbide; avoid chatter | Clean and forgiving; less chip‑out | Both machine well with plastics tooling. |
| Drilling | Use plastics/step bit; support and go slow to avoid cracks | Very forgiving with standard HSS bits | Acrylic needs more care when drilling. |
| Cost (like‑for‑like) | Generally lower | Generally higher | Start with acrylic unless you truly need PC’s toughness. |
Cutting, drilling, laser & bending
Acrylic tips
- Cutting: use a fine‑tooth carbide blade (plastics blade) or CNC router; support the sheet to prevent vibration.
- Drilling: use a step drill or plastic‑point bit; back up with MDF; low–moderate speed; gentle feed; pause to clear chips.
- Edges: machine‑polish or flame‑polish (keep the protective film on nearby).
- Forming: heat‑bend or thermoform; do not cold bend.
- Laser: acrylic (esp. cast) laser‑cuts beautifully for signage and letters.
Polycarbonate tips
- Cutting: circular saw with fine‑tooth carbide or CNC; very low risk of cracking.
- Drilling: standard sharp HSS bits work; oversize holes slightly to allow thermal expansion when fixing.
- Bending: can cold‑bend to a safe radius; heat‑form for tight curves.
- Laser: thin PC can be CO₂‑cut but edges brown; not ideal for decorative work. Prefer saw/router.
- Surface: softer than acrylic—specify hard‑coat for heavy cleaning/traffic.
Best‑fit uses (quick guide)
Retail displays & cases
Choose acrylic for superior clarity and polishable edges.
Machine guards & impact zones
Choose polycarbonate for impact toughness; consider hard‑coat for frequent cleaning.
Outdoor signage & glazing
Acrylic stays clear long‑term. UV‑grade PC if impact resistance is critical.
Greenhouse / roofing
Multiwall PC for insulation and strength; acrylic for maximum clarity in gentle conditions.
Laser‑cut letters & models
Acrylic (cast) every time.
DIY panels you must drill
Polycarbonate is more forgiving; acrylic is fine if you follow the drilling guide below.
How‑to: drill acrylic without cracks
- Prep: leave the protective film on; mark the hole; support the sheet on flat MDF or ply. Clamp lightly.
- Bit: use a step drill (ideal) or a plastic‑point bit (60–90° tip); avoid brad‑point wood bits.
- Speed & feed: slow–moderate speed; apply gentle, steady pressure. Pause to clear chips.
- Exit: slow down as the bit breaks through to avoid chipping. A backing board prevents breakout.
- Finish: de‑burr lightly with a countersink by hand; don’t overheat the edge. Remove film last.
- Fixings: leave a small clearance around screws to allow thermal movement; avoid overtightening.
Tip: If you’re nervous about drilling acrylic, choose polycarbonate for a more forgiving experience.
FAQs people ask about acrylic vs polycarbonate
Which is clearer—acrylic or polycarbonate?
Acrylic has the highest visible‑light transmission of the clear plastics (up to ~92%). Clear polycarbonate is very clear too, typically in the high‑80s.
Which is stronger?
For impact: polycarbonate by a wide margin. For scratch resistance: acrylic (unless you choose hard‑coat PC).
Does polycarbonate yellow in the sun?
Standard PC can yellow over time outdoors. UV‑stabilised or hard‑coat grades are designed to resist yellowing and are the right choice for long‑term exposure.
Is acrylic UV‑stable?
Yes—clear acrylic is inherently UV‑stable, which is why it’s common in outdoor signage and glazing.
Can I laser‑cut both?
Acrylic—yes (excellent). Polycarbonate—thin sheet can be laser‑cut but edges often brown and haze; for best results, saw or route PC instead.
Which is easier to drill without cracking?
Polycarbonate is more forgiving. Acrylic needs the right bit, support and technique—see the drilling guide above.
Can I cold‑bend either material?
Polycarbonate can be cold‑bent to a safe radius. Acrylic must be heat‑bent or thermoformed.
What should I use for a greenhouse?
Multiwall polycarbonate for impact and insulation. Choose clear acrylic only where you want maximum transparency and low impact risk.
How do I clean them?
Use mild soap and water with a soft microfibre cloth. Avoid ammonia and harsh solvents. For coated PC, follow the brand’s cleaning instructions.
Food contact—are they safe?
Many grades of acrylic and polycarbonate are manufactured to meet food‑contact regulations. Ask us for a compliant grade if that’s your application.
Cast vs extruded acrylic—what’s the difference?
Cast acrylic tends to laser‑cut and polish slightly better and has lower internal stress. Extruded acrylic is more economical and consistent for general panels.